When the coastal heat begins to intensify, all it takes is a glance towards the Apuan Alps to imagine the fresh air drifting down from the peaks. In Versilia, the shift in scenery from sea to mountains is just a matter of a few kilometres: here you don’t have to choose – you can experience both.

From the Grand Hotel & Riviera in Lido di Camaiore, the Apuan Alps are within easy reach, with trails winding through shaded beech woods and over white marble ridges that glisten in the sunlight. September is the perfect time to set off: the days still offer plenty of light, yet the cooler air already calls for comfortable shoes and the urge to walk.

 

Monte Forato and its Swing

The Monte Forato loop is a trail that leaves a lasting impression. The famous natural arch, shaped by time and wind, appears through the trees like an open window to the sky. 

What many don’t know is that right next to it, there is a rope swing hanging from a tree branch. You can sit on the swing, let your feet dangle over the edge, and enjoy the breathtaking view that stretches from the sea to the mountain peaks. It’s the perfect spot for a relaxing break — and for taking a photo or two.

The trail leading to the swing is equally stunning, featuring alternating shaded sections beneath beech trees and open areas where, on clear days, you can even see the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago

 

La Pania della Croce

Known as the queen of the Apuan Alps, the Pania della Croce is a peak that has inspired writers and poets for centuries. Its imposing outline, visible from afar, was cited by authors such as Dante, Boccaccio and Ariosto, and is the subject of legends of spirits, impossible loves and mysterious presences said to inhabit its slopes.

The ascent winds through high-altitude meadows and airy ridges, where the wind seems to accompany each step. From the summit, the view stretches in every direction: to the north-west the Maritime Alps, to the south the distant outline of Corsica, to the east the irregular chain of the Apennines, and to the west the Tyrrhenian Sea, with the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago sharp on the horizon. It is a rare meeting point, where mountains and sea seem to merge into a single landscape.

 

The Tambura Loop from Campocatino

Campocatino is a place that preserves the ancient soul of the Apuan Alps. This silent plateau, with meadows swaying in the wind and old stone shepherds’ huts, still carries the atmosphere of times gone by.

The Tambura loop leads through ever-changing landscapes: from scree crunching beneath your boots to shaded gullies, and along the traces of the old routes where marble blocks were once dragged down to the valley.

Part of the route follows the historic Via Vandelli, designed in the 18th century to connect Modena and Massa, and crosses the steep strade di lizza, once used by quarrymen.

 

La Via del Volto Santo

The Via del Volto Santo is a pilgrimage route linking Pontremoli to Lucca, crossing Lunigiana and Garfagnana amidst Romanesque parish churches, stone villages and chestnut forests.

Its destination is the wooden statue of the Volto Santo, housed in a Carrara marble chapel inside Lucca’s Cathedral. 

According to tradition, it is an acheropita image – not made by human hand but through divine intervention. Legend has it that the body of the crucifix was carved by Nicodemus, while the face appeared miraculously overnight. Still today, this sacred figure draws countless pilgrims.

 

Villages to Explore

The Apuan Alps are home to villages that seem frozen in time. Isola Santa, with its stone houses reflected in the still waters of the lake, has an almost fairytale charm. Colonnata, meanwhile, is scented with its famous cured lard: after a day of hiking, tasting it with warm bread is a ritual that rewards every effort. 

Also unmissable are Vagli di Sotto, with its artificial lake and submerged village that re-emerges when the water is drained, and Careggine, perched on the slopes with sweeping views across the valley. Small places where time slows down, steeped in history and bound deeply to the mountains.

After a full day among peaks and mountain villages, the return to the coast becomes a moment to savour. At the Grand Hotel & Riviera, a spa awaits to soothe tired muscles and offer a regenerating pause with sauna, Turkish bath and tailored treatments.

The evening continues at the hotel restaurant, where the catch of the day meets traditional Versilian recipes, prepared with care and presented with attention to detail. And when it’s time to rest, the quiet, welcoming rooms embrace you in discreet comfort, leading you into a deep, restorative sleep.

​Experience the Apuan Alps in September – and book your stay at the Grand Hotel & Riviera.